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Ingredient List

Ingredient descriptions were found on Paula Begoun's Beautypedia website and in the New Beauty Magazine (various issues).

Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)

- According to Beautypedia, AHAs are derived from various plant sources or from milk. However, 99% of the AHAs used in cosmetics are synthetically derived. In low concentrations (less than 3%) AHAs work as water-binding agents. At concentrations over 4% and in a base with an acid pH of 3 to 4, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in the skin that holds skin cells together. The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective but are considered less stable and less skin-friendly; there is little research showing them to have benefit for skin. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: BEST
- loosen and lifts the top layer of dead cells, exfoliating sun-damaged skin from the surface.

Allantoin

- (anti-inflammatory) - According to the examiner.com, allantoin is a natural soothing, anti-irritant, and skin protectant that increases the water content of the extracellular matrix which provides structural support to cells and is an important part of connective tissue. Allantoin also increases the smoothness of the skin; promotes cell replication; and promotes the healing of wounds, burns, and scars.
- According to MakingCosmetics.com, Protects, soothes & hydrates the skin. Found to promote skin renewal.

CO Enzyme Q10

- Increases elasticity and cell renewal.

Dimethicone

- This is a silicone oil that provides a smooth application. It fills in uneven texture and fine lines, which helps create a smooth and flawless look. It also provides a protective cover on the skin, which is to help keep moisture in, leaving skin hydrated longer. In addition, it works to reduce redness caused by rosacea and can function as an anti-inflammatory. Most of all, the cosmetic industry values this ingredient for its powerful ability to keep skin adequately lubricated, even during the driest winter weather.

Ferulic Acid

- This plant-based antioxidant neutralizes free radicals, helps inhibit UV-induced skin discolorations and has anti-inflammatory properties. In addition to its sun-protective benefits to the skin, Ferulic Acid enhances the stability of topical applications of vitamin E.

Glycerin

- According to Paula Begoun’s Beautipedia, it is also called glycerol or glycerine; it is present in all-natural lipids (fats). Whether natural or synthetic, glycerin is a humectant and extremely hygroscopic, meaning it readily absorbs water from other sources. So, in part, glycerin works because of its ability to attract water from the environment and from the lower layers of skin (dermis) increasing the amount of water in the surface layers of skin. Another aspect of glycerin’s benefit is that it is a skin-identical ingredient, meaning it is a substance found naturally in the skin. In that respect, it is one of the many substances in skin that help maintain the outer barrier and prevent dryness or scaling. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: BEST

Glycolic Acid

- an Alpha Hydroxy Acid that increases the production of collagen and glycosaminoglycans to plump and firm the skin.

Grapefruit

- extract brightens with antiseptic and aromatic qualities.

Green Tea Extract

- (illuminates skin) this potent antioxidant fights free radicals, works to reduce inflammation, build collagen, and reduce cell damage by impeding the harmful effects of sun exposure. Current research also indicates that (EGCG), an extract of tea, can prevent collagen breakdown and reduce UV damage to the skin.

Hyaluronic acid (moisturizers)

- According to Paula Begoun’s Beautipedia, it is a component of skin tissue that is used in skin-care products as a good skin-identical ingredient. Hyaluronic acid can boost the skin's moisture content and help prevent moisture loss.
- According to MakingCosmetics.com, it is the most powerful moisturizer and humectant known so far. Provides smoothness and softening to the skin. Can reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Ideal ingredient after skin peels.

Intercellular Matrix

- According to Beautypedia, it is the "Mortar" that holds layers of skin cells together, creating a contiguous natural, external barrier. Preserving the intercellular layer intact keeps bacteria out, moisture in, and the skin’s surface smooth. Skin’s intercellular matrix (also referred to in this book as skin-identical ingredients) includes ceramides, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, glycerin, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: BEST

L-ascorbic Acid (See Vitamin C)

- a stable form of vitamin C considered an excellent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent.  The Ingredient Neutralizes damaging free radicals and protects skin’s breakdown from oxidative stress.

Linalool

-Fragrant component of lavender and coriander can be a potent skin irritant, allergen, or sensitizer once it is exposed to air.

Mica

- According to MakingCosmetics.com, mica powder is a semi-matte, translucent powder from the mineral Muscovite Mica (potassium aluminum silicate). It is used as a filler and texturizer for improved skin feel, increases slip and aids skin adhesion, acts as a bulking agent in emulsions, reduces greasiness of oil-containing formulas, can replace talc as filler, and it has anti-caking properties (prevents clumping).
- Light-reflecting mica minerals are typically used as a colorant.

Nano-Claire GY

- the world's first bioengineered growth hormone-like protein that works as a "hormone replacement therapy" for the skin.

Orange extract

- supports natural cell turnover and purifies.

Panthenol

- According to Wikipedia, panthenol is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), and is thus a provitamin of B5. Panthenol is a highly viscous transparent liquid at room temperature, but salts of pantothenic acid (for example sodium pantothenate) are powders (typically white).

Peptides

- are tiny protein fragments that promote collagen growth and help repair skin. Basically, peptides help older cells communicate like younger cells. When cells can communicate more fully, repair cells can focus on areas of skin damage caused by the aging process. They help improve skin's appearance and enhance their healthy functioning. The result is enhanced firmness, better moisture retention, and visible easing of wrinkles.
“Peptides are not miracle-workers for skin, nor are they all that hydrating on their own. Peptides also cannot plump lips (at least not to a noticeable extent) nor can they lift sagging skin, lighten dark circles, or eliminate puffy eyes. You'll see all of these claims and more on products with peptides, but they are not supported by published, peer-reviewed research.” Paula Begoun

Provitamin B5 (d-panthenol)

 - According to MakingCosmetics.com, Provitamin B5 (synonyms: D-pantothenyl alcohol, pantothenol, dexpanthenol) is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). Penetrates readily skin and hair. Has good moisturizing and softening properties. Has been shown to improve the appearance of irritated skin and promote the regeneration of the skin. Gives the hair moisture and shine and reduces split ends.

Physalis Angulata Extract 

- Derived from a plant in the Brazilian rainforest, it's anti-inflammatory and helps soften the skin.

PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica

- Stem cells from a rare Swiss Apple proven to slow down and delay the aging process. **Winner of the European Cosmetics Innovation Prize in 2008 for Best Active Ingredient, PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica.

Rosehip

- seed extract heals repairs damage, and soothes.
- According to MakingCosmetics.com, it’s an excellent emollient and moisturizer, leaves the skin soft, smooth, and hydrated. Has been shown to improve the appearance of aging skin. Ideal for distressed and/or sensitive skin.
- According to Beautypedia, it’s a good emollient oil that has antioxidant properties

Resveratrol

- According to Beautypedia, Potent polyphenolic antioxidant that is abundant in red grapes and, therefore, in red wine (unfortunately for some of us, not in white wine). Resveratrol has been reported in numerous studies to be one of the most potent natural chemopreventive agents inhibiting the cellular processes associated with tumor development, including initiation, promotion, and progression. It also has significant anti-inflammatory properties. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: BEST

Silicone

- is the ingredient that makes your skin feel so smooth immediately after application.  Several silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone, etc.) are present in this cream.

Skin-Identical Ingredients

- According to Beautypedia, the term “skin-identical ingredients” or "skin-repairing ingredients" refers to the substances between skin cells (technically referred to as the intercellular matrix) that keep skin cells connected and help maintain skin’s fundamental external structure. Think of your skin as consisting of bricks, with the mortar being the material that holds these bricks together. Skin cells are the bricks, and the mortar (cement) between them is made up of skin-identical ingredients. An intact, stable, healthy, and strong mortar structure is what allows the skin to look smooth, soft, moist, supple, and young. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: BEST

Sodium Hyaluronate

- According to Beautypedia, it is the salt form of skin-identical ingredient hyaluronic acid. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: BEST

Squalane

- According to MakingCosmetics.com, derived from olive oil, highly resistant to oxidation, has a high affinity to skin cells due to its skin-identical structure. Specialty emollient, high resistance to oxidation, high affinity to skin and its natural lipids, excellent skin-penetrating qualities, reduced fine wrinkles, medium spreading qualities, non-irritating, non-allergenic, hypo-comedogenic. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: BEST

Stearyl Alcohol

-Fatty alcohol used as an emollient and to help keep other ingredients intact in a formulation. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: GOOD

Swiss Apple Stem Cell Extract

- which protects and extends the life of the skin’s own stem cells, helping to delay the effects of aging. Slows aging by making cells act younger.

Vitamin A

- is a type of retinol that helps stimulate collagen and elastin. It’s a powerful skin renewal booster that energizes cells, kills off dead cells, and produces new ones. It diminishes wrinkles and my help promote the production of skin-building compounds. Vitamin A helps the skin to combat aging in order to prevent premature skin aging. 
- Retinol is an antioxidant and thus can interrupt the free-radical damage process that causes the skin to look and act older. This action helps prevent wrinkling and increases collagen production. - Retinol is effective at managing acne and eczema, as well as improving discolorations and wrinkles from sun damage. All of these benefits are why retinol helps your skin look and act younger! - When used to treat acne, vitamin A normalizes how the skin sloughs away dead cells, which helps keep pores clear so they don’t clog and lead to the formation of pustules and inflammation. - Vitamin A fights acne, diminishes the look of fine lines, softens the skin, improves discoloration from past breakouts and the sun, and decreases pore size. - Vitamin A, also known as retinoic acid, has antioxidant properties and is a cell-communicating ingredient, so it helps the cells to function normally. - Vitamin A boosts collagen production and cell turnover. - Vitamin A works at a cellular level to rejuvenate the skin while providing both preventative and corrective benefits. 

Vitamin B3

- More commonly known as niacinamide, (a component of vitamin B3) has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in the skin, prevents skin from losing water content for more hydration and stimulates micro-circulation in the dermis. As an antioxidant, niacinamide can improve skin's elasticity, dramatically enhance skin's hydration, help erase discolorations, and revive the skin's healthy tone and texture. - Vitamin B3 acts as a barrier between the skin and the environment to block out external damaging agents-- pollution, smoke, and free radicals--that can break down the integrity of the skin and lead to dullness, wrinkles, and loss of radiance.

Vitamin C

- In general, vitamin C is a collagen-boosting antioxidant vital for glowing skin. It is anti-inflammatory, controls oil, hydrates, lightens discoloration, wards off free-radicals, produces healthy collagen and healthy collagen equals plumper skin.
- Vitamin C is a super antioxidant that has natural lighteners and brighteners. It jump-starts and increases collagen production for increased firmness and plumpness (including dermal collagen, which is significant for wrinkle reduction), reduce the appearance of skin discoloration, strengthens skin’s barrier response, enhances skin’s repair process, reduces inflammation and help skin better withstand exposure to sunlight, whether protected by sunscreen or not.

Vitamin D

- A fat-soluble vitamin (actually, it's a hormone) that may have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immune-stimulating benefits for skin, among other preventive traits. - This anti-inflammatory has a track record for alleviating psoriasis, as it normalizes skin cell turnover, which helps heal psoriasis lesions. Its ability to reduce inflammation also makes it ideal for inflammatory issues like acne and wrinkles. 

Vitamin E

- (Tocopherol) A free-radical neutralizer, Vitamin E, is considered an antioxidant superstar and is best known for its skin-healing abilities, but it also carries natural sun-protecting capabilities and acts as an antioxidant. This moisturizing antioxidant guards the skin barrier/cell membranes by protecting the fat components to strengthen the skin's barrier function, which decreases free-radical damage, reduces skin water loss for more hydration and prevents collagen from being destroyed. When it comes to skincare, tocopherol is the most effective form of the vitamin. Vitamin E is known to increase the efficacy of vitamin C. - Vitamin E also has a well-established reputation as an effective antioxidant. It Neutralizes free radicals and replenishes skin’s lipids. - Vitamin E provides the skin with antioxidant protection against free-radical damage, preventing premature aging.

Vitamin K

- Helps diminish vascular conditions such as dark circles, redness from Rosacea, and broken capillaries. - Vitamin K can help to constrict these vessels and reduce darkness under the eyes. While it’s primarily used to boost circulation, new research shows that the vitamin may also help ward off wrinkles by making the skin more elastic.


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