Ingredient List

Ingredient descriptions were found on Paula Begoun's Beautypedia website and in the New Beauty Magazine (various issues).

ACS (Anti-Cyto Stressor) 

- to promote an overall bio regulation that follows and respects the cutaneous physiological mechanisms by hindering the alterations caused by stress hormone.

Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)

- According to Beautypedia, AHAs are derived from various plant sources or from milk. However, 99% of the AHAs used in cosmetics are synthetically derived. In low concentrations (less than 3%) AHAs work as water-binding agents. At concentrations over 4% and in a base with an acid pH of 3 to 4, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together. The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective but are considered less stable and less skin-friendly; there is little research showing them to have benefit for skin. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: BEST
- loosen and lifts the top layer of dead cells, exfoliating sun damaged skin from the surface.

Allantoin

- (anti-inflammatory) - According to the examiner.com, allantoin is a natural soothing, anti-irritant, and skin protectant that increases the water content of the extracellular matrix which provides structural support to cells and is an important part of connective tissue. Allantoin also increases the smoothness of the skin; promotes cell replication; and promotes the healing of wounds, burns, and scars.
- According to MakingCosmetics.com, Protects, soothes & hydrates the skin. Found to promote skin renewal.

Chardonnay Grape Seed Extract

- known for its anti-inflammatory properties that protect against cell aging. This antioxidant significantly reduces free-radical damage and combining it with other antioxidants greatly enhances its efficacy. It also has wound-healing properties. As for fighting wrinkles, it is one of the top superstars.

CO Enzyme Q10

- Increases elasticity and cell renewal.

Dimethicone

- is s silicone oil with certain properties that make it extremely popular in today’s personal care properties. This ingredient provides a smooth application. For skin care products, it fills in uneven texture and fine lines, which helps create a smooth and flawless look in products. It also provides a protective cover on skin, which is supposed to help keep moisture in, leaving skin hydrated longer. In addition, it works to reduce redness caused by rosacea and can function as an anti-inflammatory. Most of all, the cosmetic industry values this ingredient for its powerful ability to keep skin adequately lubricated, even during the driest winter weather.

Ester-C (Calcium Ascorbate) (See Vitamin C)

-  is a highly stable natural form of vitamin C found naturally in the body.

Ferulic Acid

- This plant-based antioxidant neutralizes free radicals, helps inhibit UV-induced skin discolorations, and has anti-inflammatory properties. In addition to its sun-protective benefits to skin, Ferulic Acid enhances the stability of topical applications of vitamin E.

Glycerin

- According to Paula Begoun’s Beautipedia, it is also called glycerol or glycerine; it is present in all natural lipids (fats), whether animal or vegetable. It can be derived from natural substances by hydrolysis of fats and by fermentation of sugars. It can also be synthetically manufactured. Whether natural or synthetic, glycerin is a humectant and extremely hygroscopic, meaning it readily absorbs water from other sources. So, in part, glycerin works because of its ability to attract water from the environment and from the lower layers of skin (dermis) increasing the amount of water in the surface layers of skin. Another aspect of glycerin’s benefit is that it is a skin-identical ingredient, meaning it is a substance found naturally in skin. In that respect it is one of the many substances in skin that help maintain the outer barrier and prevent dryness or scaling. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: BEST

Glycolic Acid

- an Alpha Hydroxy Acid, increases production of collagen and glycosaminoglycans to plump and firm the skin.

Grapefruit

- extract brightens with antiseptic and aromatic qualities.

Green Tea Extract

- (illuminates skin) this potent antioxidant fights free radicals, works to reduce inflammation, build collagen and reduce cell damage by impeding the harmful effects of sun exposure. Current research also indicates that (EGCG), an extract of tea, can prevent collagen breakdown and reduce UV damage to skin.

Happybelle 

- a plant-based beta-endorphin (a phyto-endorphin extract) that comes from the cactus Monk’s Pepper combined with antioxidant and moisturizing factors to help revitalize the skin and give it a radiant glow. Ingredient stimulates key enzymes in the receptor system helping to relieve skin aggressors and bring out natural radiance while fighting the root causes of environmental damage.

Hyaluronic acid (moisturizers)

- According to Paula Begoun’s Beautipedia, it is a component of skin tissue that is used in skin-care products as a good skin-identical ingredient. Hyaluronic acid can boost skin's moisture content and help prevent moisture loss.
- According to MakingCosmetics.com, it is the most powerful moisturizer and humectant known so far. Provides smoothness and softening to the skin. Can reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Ideal ingredient after skin peels.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

-Synthetic polymer used as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: GOOD

Intercellular Matrix

- According to Beautypedia, it is the "Mortar" that holds layers of skin cells together, creating a contiguous natural, external barrier. Preserving the intercellular layer intact keeps bacteria out, moisture in, and the skin’s surface smooth. Skin’s intercellular matrix (also referred to in this book as skin-identical ingredients) includes ceramides, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, glycerin, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: BEST

L-ascorbic Acid (See Vitamin C)

- a stable form of vitamin C considered an excellent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent.  The Ingredient Neutralizes damaging free radicals and protects skin’s breakdown from oxidative stress.

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil

- can be a skin irritant and there is no research showing it has any benefit for skin. Lavender oil all by itself isn't a photosensitizer, but when exposed to oxygen, one of its fragrant components, linalyl acetate forms substances that lead to allergic contact dermatitis in and out of sunlight. Research also indicates that other components of lavender, specifically linalool, when applied topically can cause skin-cell death. Lavender leaves contain camphor, which is known as a skin irritant. Because the fragrances in lavender oil oxidizes when exposed to air, this enhanced oxidation also increases its irritancy on skin. **Lavender oil, even small amounts of it (0.25% or less) can be problematic. -It is a MUST to avoid in skin-care products.

Linalool

-Fragrant component of lavender and coriander that can be a potent skin irritant, allergen, or sensitizer once it is exposed to air.

Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate

-Synthetic silica-based clay composed of lithium, sodium, and magnesium. Used as a thickening agent and an absorbent. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: GOOD

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

-Powdery, dry-feeling, white solid that is used as a thickening agent and powder in cosmetics. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: GOOD

Mica

- According to MakingCosmetics.com, mica powder is a semi-matte, translucent powder from the mineral Muscovite Mica (potassium aluminum silicate). It is used as a filler and texturizer for improved skin feel, increases slip and aids skin adhesion, acts as bulking agent in emulsions, reduces greasiness of oil-containing formulas, can replace talc as filler, and it has anti-caking properties (prevents clumping).
- Light-reflecting mica minerals are typically used as a colorant.

Nano-Claire GY

- the world's first bio engineered growth hormone-like protein that works as a "hormone replacement therapy" for the skin.

Orange extract

- supports natural cell turnover and purifies.

Panthenol

- According to Wikipedia, panthenol is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), and is thus a provitamin of B5. Panthenol is a highly viscous transparent liquid at room temperature, but salts of pantothenic acid (for example sodium pantothenate) are powders (typically white).

Peptides

- are tiny protein fragments that promote collagen growth and help repair skin. Basically, peptides help older cells communicate like younger cells. When cells can communicate more fully, repair cells can focus on areas of skin damage caused by aging process. They help improve skin's appearance and enhance its healthy functioning. The result is enhanced firmness, better moisture retention and visible easing of wrinkles.
“Peptides are not miracle-workers for skin, nor are they all that hydrating on their own. Peptides also cannot plump lips (at least not to a noticeable extent) nor can they lift sagging skin, lighten dark circles, or eliminate puffy eyes. You'll see all of these claims and more on products with peptides, but they are not supported by published, peer-reviewed research.” Paula Begoun

Provitamin B5 (d-panthenol)

 - According to MakingCosmetics.com, Provitamin B5 (synonyms: D-pantothenyl alcohol, pantothenol, dexpanthenol) is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). Penetrates readily skin and hair. Has good moisturizing and softening properties. Has been shown to improve the appearance of irritated skin and promote regeneration of skin. Gives the hair moisture and shine and reduces split ends.

Physalis Angulata Extract 

- Derived from a plant in the Brazilian rainforest, it's anti-inflammatory and helps soften the skin.

PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica

- Stem cells from a rare Swiss Apple proven to slow down and delay the aging process. **Winner of the European Cosmetics Innovation Prize in 2008 for Best Active Ingredient, PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica.

Rose hip

- seed extract heals, repairs damage, and soothes.
- According to MakingCosmetics.com, it’s an excellent emollient and moisturizer, leaves the skin soft, smooth and hydrated. Has been shown to improve the appearance of aging skin. Ideal for distressed and/or sensitive skin.
- According to Beautypedia, it’s a good emollient oil that has antioxidant properties

Resveratrol

- According to Beautypedia, Potent polyphenolic antioxidant that is abundant in red grapes and, therefore, in red wine (unfortunately for some of us, not in white wine). Resveratrol has been reported in numerous studies to be one of the most potent natural chemopreventive agents inhibiting the cellular processes associated with tumor development, including initiation, promotion, and progression. It also has significant anti-inflammatory properties. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: BEST

Saw palmetto

- conditions your skin for a long-lasting moisture.

Silicone

- is the ingredient that makes your skin feel so smooth immediately after application.  Several silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone, etc.) are present in this cream.

Skin-Identical Ingredients

- According to Beautypedia, the term “skin-identical ingredients” or "skin-repairing ingredients" refers to the substances between skin cells (technically referred to as the intercellular matrix) that keep skin cells connected and help maintain skin’s fundamental external structure. Think of your skin as consisting of bricks, with the mortar being the material that holds these bricks together. Skin cells are the bricks, and the mortar (cement) between them is made up of skin-identical ingredients. An intact, stable, healthy, and strong mortar structure is what allows skin to look smooth, soft, moist, supple, and young. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: BEST

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (See Vitamin C)

- is very stable, safe, and non-irritating form of Vitamin C—the key to production of collagen. It maximizes the protective properties of Vitamin C by retaining its effectiveness over time. Use alone or together with Vitamin E and Hyaluronic Acid, can provide an effective antioxidant combination that reduces the formation of free radicals and stimulates collagen synthesis (which slows down with aging). Additionally, it can help to improve the appearance of skin as it can lessen the appearance of photo-damage and age spots.

Sodium Hyaluronate

- According to Beautypedia, it is the salt form of skin-identical ingredient hyaluronic acid. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: BEST

Squalane

- According to MakingCosmetics.com, derived from olive oil, highly resistant to oxidation, has a high affinity to skin cells due to its skin-identical structure. Specialty emollient, high resistance to oxidation, high affinity to skin and its natural lipids, excellent skin-penetrating qualities, reduced fine wrinkles, medium spreading qualities, non irritating, non-allergenic, hypo-comedogenic. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: BEST

Stearyl Alcohol

-Fatty alcohol used as an emollient and to help keep other ingredients intact in a formulation. Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Rating: GOOD

Swiss Apple Stem Cell Extract

- which protects and extends the life of the skin’s own stem cells, helping to delay the effects of aging. Slows aging by making cells act younger.

Vitamin A

- is a type of retinol that helps stimulate collagen and elastin. It’s a powerful skin renewal booster that energizes cells, kills off dead cells, and produces new ones. It diminishes wrinkles and my help promote the production of skin-building compounds. Vitamin A helps the skin to combat aging in order to prevent premature skin aging. 
- Retinol is an antioxidant, and thus can interrupt the free-radical damage process that causes skin to look and act older. This action helps prevent wrinkling and increases collagen production. - Retinol is effective at managing acne and eczema, as well as improving discolorations and wrinkles from sun damage. All of these benefits are why retinol helps your skin look and act younger! - When used to treat acne, vitamin A normalizes how the skin sloughs away dead cells, which helps keep pores clear so they don’t clog and lead to the formation of pustules and inflammation. - Vitamin A fights acne, diminishes the look of fine lines, softens the skin, improves discoloration from past breakouts and the sun, and decreases pore size. - Vitamin A, also known as retinoic acid, has antioxidant properties and is a cell-communicating ingredient, so it helps the cells to function normally. - Vitamin A boosts collagen production and cell turnover. - Vitamin A works at a cellular level to rejuvenate the skin while providing both preventative and corrective benefits. 

Vitamin B3

- More commonly known as niacinamide, (a component of vitamin B3) has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevents skin from losing water content for more hydration and stimulates micro-circulation in the dermis. As an antioxidant, niacinamide can improve skin's elasticity, dramatically enhance skin's hydration, help erase discolorations, and revive skin's healthy tone and texture. - Vitamin B3 acts as a barrier between the skin and the environment to block out external damaging agents-- pollution, smoke and free radicals--that can break down the integrity of the skin and lead to dullness, wrinkles and loss of radiance.

Vitamin C

- In general, vitamin C is a collagen boosting antioxidant vital for glowing skin. It is anti-inflammatory, controls oil, hydrates, lightens discoloration, wards off free-radicals, produces healthy collagen and healthy collagen equals plumper skin.
- Vitamin C is a super antioxidant that has natural lighteners and brighteners. It jump starts and increases collagen production for increased firmness and plumpness (including dermal collagen, which is significant for wrinkle  reduction), reduce the appearance of skin discoloration, strengthens skin’s barrier response, enhance skin’s repair process, reduce inflammation and help skin better withstand exposure to sunlight, whether protected by sunscreen or not.

Vitamin D

- A fat-soluble vitamin (actually, it's a hormone) that may have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immune-stimulating benefits for skin, among other preventive traits. - This anti-inflammatory has a track record for alleviating psoriasis, as it normalizes skin cell turnover, which helps heal psoriasis lesions. Its ability to reduce inflammation also makes it ideal for inflammatory issues like acne and wrinkles. 

Vitamin E

- (Tocopherol) A free-radical neutralizer, Vitamin E, is considered an antioxidant superstar and is best known for its skin-healing abilities, but it also carries natural sun-protecting capabilities and acts as an antioxidant. This moisturizing antioxidant guards the skin barrier/cell membranes by protecting the fat components to strengthen the skin's barrier function, which decreases free-radical damage, reduces skins water loss for more hydration, and prevents collagen from being destroyed. When it comes to skin care, tocopherol is the most effective form of the vitamin. Vitamin E is known to increase the efficacy of vitamin C. - Vitamin E also has a well-established reputation as an effective antioxidant. It Neutralizes free radicals and replenishes skin’s lipids. - Vitamin E provides the skin with antioxidant protection against free-radical damage, preventing premature aging.

Vitamin K

- Helps diminish vascular conditions such as dark circles, redness from Rosacea, and broken capillaries. - Playing a role in the amount of blood that the blood vessels leak, vitamin K can help to constrict these vessels and reduce darkness under the eyes. While it’s primarily used to boost circulation, new research shows that the vitamin may also help ward off wrinkles by making the skin more elastic.


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